More recently, Japan invaded again and occupied Korea from 1910 to 1945. Following this period and Japan’s surrender, marking the end of World War II, Korea was divided into the communist north (backed by the USSR and China) and the south (backed by the allies, namely the USA). The idea was that this division was temporary and that the country would be reunited at a later date. In 1950, however, North Korea launched a surprise invasion of the south, leading to more than three years of brutal war across the whole of Korea. The war saw a UN force made up of a number of nations, including the USA, UK, Australia, Netherlands, France and others intervening to support the south. The South and UN forces pushed the North Koreans out of South Korea and into the north of North Korea. At this point, China intervened, adding its troops to those of the North and reversing the gains of the allies. Ultimately, the war ended in a stalemate with North and South being cut off from one another, creating the current situation and border which are present today. 

Many Korean families are separated with relatives on either side of the border. It’s a really sad story, especially when Koreans are easily some of the best people you will ever meet, being warm, welcoming, respectful and openhearted. The War Memorial of Korea, which is located in Seoul, tells a far better story of these events than I ever could and it is definitely worth visiting to gain a better understanding of the situation. A visit to the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ), which denotes the border between the North and South is also worthwhile, with tours including transport taking a day and leaving regularly from Seoul. I provide more information on this under my specific recommendations for South Korea.